WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en

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♫ music ♫

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If you’re among the folks who drive a car to get around,

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and you’re a good egg who uses turn signals like you should vote —

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early and often

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— you’ll probably have been in this situation;

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You’re sitting in a turning lane, with your signal on

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because again you’re a good egg,

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and despite all the projection of good vibes
you can muster,

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you just can’t get your turn signal to sync up with the car in front of you.

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Why?

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You’d think this wouldn’t be so difficult,

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after all it’s just a blinking light,

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but try as you might even if you appear to get it synced

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eventually one signal drifts away from the other.

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Turns out there’s a very simple explanation
for why you can’t get two indicators to flash in sync.

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It has to do with how turn signal circuits
function.

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Except, these days?

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Those circuits don’t work like they used
to,

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and, with the right car in front of you,

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you absolutely can sync yours up.

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There’s no trickery going on here.

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These are three different completely unmodified cars,

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all different model-years, made 4 years apart,

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but their indicators stay in lockstep
with one another.

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What’s going on here?

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Computers!

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But let’s step back in time and look at
how turn signal circuits used to work.

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Cars have needed blinky lights on them for
communicating your intent to those around you

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for many decades,

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long before the word "microcontroller" ever left an auto executive’s mouth.

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Although we experimented with goofy ideas
like trafficators

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or delightfully quaint displays like these,

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eventually we settled on flashing lights

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— the flashing helps to get your attention —

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placed at the corners of vehicles.

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Most of the world has decided you need to
have amber-colored lighting at all four corners for indicators,

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but for some reason this continent
thinks red is OK on the rear

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and even worse we’re just fine with combining the functions
of the stop lamp and the turn indicator into one lamp!

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It’s really not great for several reasons,

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but that’s an old video of mine.

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Now, as you may imagine,

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if turn signals haven’t fundamentally changed since the 1950’s,

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the circuit which makes them possible is probably pretty simple.

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And in fact it is!

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It would be really great if we had an old-fashioned
 turn signal circuit we could take a look at.

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Luckily...

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I have one

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right

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here!

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And yes, I know the headlights are facing backwards
if the steering wheel is facing you,

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but, look, this is just a demonstration.

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Deal with it.

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This is a steering wheel and (truncated) column
assembly out of a late ‘80s Honda.

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It was important that it be that old, 
and you’ll understand why by the end of this video.

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These are your stalks.

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Like corn, but plastic!

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In this car, these control wipers and all exterior lighting.

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To the left is the turn signal stalk and headlight switch.

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And to the right is the wiper stalk.

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These are all real, current-carrying switches.

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You can see on the connector for the headlight
switch some rather beefy pins,

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and that’s because all of the current for the headlights
and whatnot traveled through this thing.

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And being a 12V electrical system, even though
the headlights may only consume 120 watts or so,

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that’s 10 amps.

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Though, for safety’s sake, each headlight is usually on its own fused circuit.

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It's better to not lose both at the same time should there be a fault.

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The switch we’re interested in is this guy.

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I’ve always admired these for how many functions
they manage to make work on a single control.

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In this car, twist the end to engage the parking lights and headlights.

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Pull it towards you to flash the high-beams.

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Pull it until it clicks to engage the high-beams

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(though in many cars you actually push it away for the same).

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Or if it's old enough it could be a switch on the floor.

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And then push it down or pull it up to engage the turn signals.

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By the way, if you’ve never realized this 
(and I know people who haven’t)

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you push it in the direction that you will turn the wheel.

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So to signal left, you push it down because
the left side of the wheel moves down when you turn left.

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And if for some reason you have a Japanese
domestic market car like some sort of eccentric person

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(or I suppose, if you live in Japan)

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the stalk is on the other side so the direction you push it is reversed, 
but the idea remains the same.

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You shouldn’t have to think about which
direction to push the stalk,

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and if you were taught to memorize up is right and down is left,

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well I’m sorry. It’s deliberately quite intuitive.

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So anyway, the three smallest contacts are
for the turn signals.

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One is common, and the other two are for the
right side of the vehicle and the left side of the vehicle.

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Engaging the stalk simply bridges the common
pin to one of the other two,

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so if we build a circuit where 12V is present on the common pin,

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it will send 12V out on one of the other pins when we engage the turn signal.

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Then, all we need to do is send that 12V to
a couple of lamps and voila!

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Turn signals.

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See?

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Push down and we light up the left side.

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Push up and we light up the right.

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Job done!

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Except, eagle-eyed viewers will notice it’s not flashing.

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Ah, yes, that complication.

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So, how do we get the light to stop being so… steady

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and start gettin' all blinky?

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Why, with one of these things!

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This is a turn signal flasher.

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Some people call this a flasher relay which,

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ehh... sure but, uh, it's not a relay.

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It’s just a clever way to repeatedly interrupt
and reconnect a circuit.

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If I put this in series with the 12V supply for the lights

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take a look at what happens.

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That is a proper turn signal!

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It’s even making the noise and everything.

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[faint clicking]

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Yeah, this is what makes - or at least, made that clicking sound.

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Now if you’ve been watching this channel
for a while you’ll probably have guessed that where there’s a click,

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there’s a switch, and you’re right.

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But even better, making that switch do its
switching thing

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is our old pal the bimetallic strip!

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Yes, the same technology that toasts bread
to perfection,

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regulates your home’s temperature or even just tells you what it is,

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and makes your Christmas lights flash

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makes your turn signals flash.

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And if you’ve ever put a flasher bulb in
a set of Christmas lights,

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you’re probably well on your way to understanding why getting
your car to sync up with another one

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has historically been so hard.

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Look.

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This is a different flasher, but it’s the same exact model.

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That is a very different flash.

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Not only is it a different speed, but the
on and off time aren’t quite the same.

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Yet nothing else changed.

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Hmm...

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So what is in these things?

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If you pick them up you'll notice that they are very, very light.

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It feels like there’s almost nothing inside them at all.

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And indeed, there’s hardly anything in there at all.

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Shall we open one?

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Heh, no need, the Magic of Buying…

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Three of them has us taken care of already.

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Now this mechanism is a little confusing,

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mainly because of this paper insulator that’s pretty easy to miss.

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Right now, the two pins aren’t exactly bridged together.

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Measure the resistance across them and you
get about 37 ohms.

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At 12 volts that’ll pass about a third of an amp, or 4 watts.

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When you first turn on the signal, nothing happens.

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However, a complete circuit is actually made right here.

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Current is flowing through the filaments of the lamps themselves,

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in fact about a third of an amp,

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but this thing is preventing the lamps from actually
glowing because that’s just not enough power.

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It’s essentially behaving as a choke point in the circuit,

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being the point of highest resistance.

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That resistance is coming from this tiny little
wire which will get quite hot pretty quickly.

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And now the bimetallic effect comes in.

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The wire wraps around and around this strip of metal,

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and the 4 watts it’s dissipating quickly heats that up.

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Once it's hot enough, this piece will snap to the left,

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and these switch contacts are now closed.

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At this point, the resistance of the flasher is negligible,

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so current easily flows through it and lights the lamps.

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However, when those contacts are closed,

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well now the path of least resistance is around that little heater wire.

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No current will flow through it so long as
these two contacts touch, so what happens?

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Well, it stops being a heater, and the metal
strip cools down.

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So after a brief period of being closed and
lighting the lamps,

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the metal strip pulls the switch contacts apart.

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But of course now that heater’s back in
action, so just as quickly as it cooled,

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it’s hot again and the switch contacts are pulled
back together.

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And this will repeat endlessly, until ya shut of yer blinker.

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Pretty clever, huh?

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That’s how turn signal flashers worked for many, many years

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and it was perfectly effective.

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However, it was very inconsistent.

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If you pay close attention you can even tell
that the speed is drifting quite a bit.

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And that of course means… synchronization is impossible.

00:09:44.734 --> 00:09:47.724
Look, here’s all three flashers together.

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Despite being the same model of flasher,

00:09:49.936 --> 00:09:52.645
with the same lamps, and connected to the same battery,

00:09:52.645 --> 00:09:55.378
they quickly drift apart.

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Oh but it gets worse.

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Thermal flashers like these will also speed up and slow down depending on the voltage they receive.

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Look. I've swap this power supply for the battery,
and as I increase the voltage

00:10:09.117 --> 00:10:13.214
the flashing speeds up and also changes a little bit.

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Now, if you weren’t aware, once a car’s engine
is running and the alternator is producing voltage,

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the system voltage goes up to around 14 volts,

00:10:21.570 --> 00:10:24.880
and it can dip when there are loads on the system.

00:10:24.880 --> 00:10:30.420
So even if you have two flashers that miraculously
stay in sync with one another,

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if your car’s cooling fan, for example, comes on,

00:10:34.155 --> 00:10:38.787
well the resulting voltage drop is gonna quickly wreck that synchronization.

00:10:38.787 --> 00:10:41.462
But, there’s something we’re overlooking.

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Thermal flashers are pretty rare and as far
as I can tell have been for quite a while now.

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Notice how quiet this thing is.

00:10:50.502 --> 00:10:51.705
[it's very quiet]

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You barely hear a click at all when the light goes out.

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And also - the fact that there’s that substantial
delay between hitting the switch

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and it actually starting to flash - well that seems odd, doesn’t it?

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I can’t recall that happening in any car
I personally remember,

00:11:10.342 --> 00:11:14.976
and in fact in my 1991 Sillymobile that’s not how it works.

00:11:15.572 --> 00:11:17.864
Yes, to those that don’t already know,

00:11:17.864 --> 00:11:19.405
I bought this silly thing.

00:11:19.405 --> 00:11:22.057
Aging Wheels made a video about it if you
want to check it out.

00:11:22.057 --> 00:11:27.142
But anyway, its turn signals don’t change
speed depending on whether the engine is running or not,

00:11:27.142 --> 00:11:30.106
and the pace of the flash is very consistent.

00:11:30.106 --> 00:11:32.393
Plus the click is proper loud.

00:11:32.393 --> 00:11:34.346
[a proper loud clicking]

00:11:34.346 --> 00:11:38.930
I’m beginning to suspect this fella has
an electronic flasher of some sort.

00:11:38.930 --> 00:11:41.342
Hold that thought, we’ll get back to it.

00:11:41.342 --> 00:11:44.579
OK, so now, let’s look at some more modern flashers.

00:11:44.579 --> 00:11:46.458
Through the Magic of Buying…

00:11:46.458 --> 00:11:49.150
Four More of Them, two identical pairs,

00:11:49.150 --> 00:11:50.844
we can explore this further.

00:11:51.221 --> 00:11:55.912
First, here are two “long life” flashers.

00:11:55.912 --> 00:12:01.298
Because, you know, the longevity of the turn signal flasher
 is at the forefront of every driver’s mind.

00:12:02.553 --> 00:12:07.141
Anyway, these ones are way heavier - 
there’s definitely stuff in ‘em, for sure.

00:12:07.141 --> 00:12:08.854
And, that stuff?

00:12:09.858 --> 00:12:12.817
Well, it’s a relay coil and a capacitor ...

00:12:12.817 --> 00:12:14.538
and I think that’s it, actually.

00:12:14.538 --> 00:12:19.825
This style of circuit often contains a resistor
in there, too, but I don’t see one here.

00:12:19.825 --> 00:12:24.382
The theory of operation here is actually quite
similar to the thermal flasher,

00:12:24.382 --> 00:12:28.477
but rather than using a fluctuating temperature to open
and close a switch,

00:12:28.477 --> 00:12:30.450
we use a fluctuating voltage.

00:12:30.450 --> 00:12:33.034
Again, this is normally open.

00:12:33.034 --> 00:12:34.628
But not exactly.

00:12:34.628 --> 00:12:37.394
There’s a measurable resistance across it.

00:12:37.394 --> 00:12:42.682
A small amount of current has to pass through
this and thus the lamps in order for it to work,

00:12:42.682 --> 00:12:44.574
just like the thermal flasher.

00:12:44.574 --> 00:12:47.584
But here, when that initial current passes
through,

00:12:47.584 --> 00:12:54.363
it’s not heating a wire but instead traveling through the coil and charging the capacitor.

00:12:54.363 --> 00:12:58.820
As the capacitor initially charges, the voltage on the
coil rises

00:12:58.820 --> 00:13:03.942
which in turn means that the strength of the magnetic field it produces does, as well.

00:13:03.942 --> 00:13:07.486
Eventually it becomes strong enough to pull this little tab down,

00:13:07.486 --> 00:13:12.540
which closes the switch contact, therefore shorts the two pins together.

00:13:12.540 --> 00:13:16.363
That sends the full current out to the turn signal lamps.

00:13:16.363 --> 00:13:21.470
The stored charge in the capacitor is able
to hold the contacts closed for a brief period,

00:13:21.470 --> 00:13:25.929
but it quickly discharges through the coil winding itself.

00:13:25.929 --> 00:13:30.576
See I think in this application the coil is
the resistor, but I could be wrong.

00:13:30.576 --> 00:13:34.120
In any case, once the coil is too weak to hold on,

00:13:34.120 --> 00:13:40.127
the switch opens again and, wouldn’t ya know it,
 now the capacitor is starting to charge back up.

00:13:40.127 --> 00:13:43.155
Eventually the voltage is enough to pull the
switch closed,

00:13:44.253 --> 00:13:46.852
rinse and repeat.
[louder ticking]

00:13:46.852 --> 00:13:53.068
Here, the speed and timing of the flash will
be determined both by the value of the capacitor

00:13:53.068 --> 00:13:59.651
and the resistance in the coil winding 
(or the thus far elusive discharge resistor if there is one).

00:13:59.651 --> 00:14:03.056
So, could we get two of these to stay in sync?

00:14:03.369 --> 00:14:05.430
In theory, yes.

00:14:05.430 --> 00:14:07.800
In practice, no.

00:14:07.800 --> 00:14:12.391
This is an entirely analog circuit and the
thing about electronic components

00:14:12.391 --> 00:14:16.113
is they’re built to within tolerances.

00:14:16.113 --> 00:14:19.856
This may claim to be a 1600 microfarad capacitor,

00:14:19.856 --> 00:14:23.899
but it’s really that plus or minus maybe 10%.

00:14:23.899 --> 00:14:28.606
Similarly, the resistance of the coil isn’t
exactly the same from coil to coil,

00:14:28.606 --> 00:14:32.580
so you’re never going to have two of these behave exactly identically.

00:14:32.580 --> 00:14:35.501
And sure enough, these don’t.

00:14:35.501 --> 00:14:37.290
I mean, it’s not even close at all!

00:14:37.290 --> 00:14:40.585
In one of them the on time is longer than
the off time,

00:14:40.585 --> 00:14:44.460
and in any case the rate of flash is substantially different.

00:14:44.460 --> 00:14:46.400
Plus, as you may have already guessed,

00:14:46.400 --> 00:14:49.519
system voltage affects their speed, too.

00:14:49.519 --> 00:14:52.915
A higher voltage will cause the capacitor
to charge more quickly,

00:14:52.915 --> 00:14:56.580
so the amount of time it spends off gets shorter.

00:14:56.580 --> 00:14:59.555
It doesn’t have as much of an effect on the on time, though,

00:14:59.555 --> 00:15:03.836
as that’s mainly influenced by the time it takes the capacitor to discharge.

00:15:03.836 --> 00:15:07.827
Now, there’s a problem with the two flashers
we’ve looked at so far.

00:15:07.827 --> 00:15:14.001
They rely on being able to pass some current
through the filaments of the signal lamps themselves

00:15:14.001 --> 00:15:19.547
to either charge their capacitors
or heat their bimetallic strips.

00:15:20.457 --> 00:15:26.072
Because not all lights have filaments these
days, this has become a problem.

00:15:26.072 --> 00:15:33.410
So, you can now buy “electronic” or “LED-compatible”
flashers like this one.

00:15:33.410 --> 00:15:40.550
Here we have an added ground pin which allows
the flasher to function regardless of what else is on the circuit.

00:15:40.550 --> 00:15:45.570
And, dear viewer, I hope you’ll indulge
me as I make a public service announcement

00:15:45.570 --> 00:15:48.207
which may seem uncharastic for me.

00:15:48.634 --> 00:15:53.339
You should never ever ever ever put aftermarket LED
replacement bulbs in your car, ever.

00:15:53.339 --> 00:15:54.534
Don’t do that.

00:15:54.534 --> 00:15:55.521
It’s bad.

00:15:56.000 --> 00:15:57.000
Why?

00:15:57.149 --> 00:16:00.626
Well, here’s the thing about the signal
lighting on cars

00:16:00.626 --> 00:16:03.250
which many people seemingly aren’t aware of.

00:16:03.250 --> 00:16:08.300
I’m not just saying that, by the way, I’ve
had many discussions about this in my more...

00:16:08.300 --> 00:16:10.470
argumentative days.

00:16:10.470 --> 00:16:14.180
The honeycomb-looking lenses on your turn
signals and brake lights?

00:16:14.180 --> 00:16:15.660
They are functional!

00:16:15.660 --> 00:16:20.360
That is a real Fresnel lens, not just some pretty texturing.

00:16:20.360 --> 00:16:23.544
Your car’s signal lights are not simply diffuse,

00:16:23.544 --> 00:16:28.440
they are deliberately designed to magnify the filament of the lamp

00:16:28.440 --> 00:16:33.434
so that the signal appears brightest to those directly in front of or behind you.

00:16:33.434 --> 00:16:34.434
Look.

00:16:34.434 --> 00:16:41.180
I need to have this thing pointed pretty much
straight on at the camera for this to appear bright to you.

00:16:41.180 --> 00:16:46.830
If I move it off-axis even just a little bit,
the brightness is greatly diminished.

00:16:46.830 --> 00:16:50.348
To show this another way, look what happens
when I remove the bulb

00:16:50.348 --> 00:16:51.733
from this enclosure.

00:16:53.239 --> 00:16:56.308
This is the same bulb that you were just looking at,

00:16:56.308 --> 00:16:59.904
but without the benefit of the reflector and lens array,

00:16:59.904 --> 00:17:05.086
the filament is just a tiny speck and
it doesn’t appear nearly as bright to you.

00:17:06.812 --> 00:17:10.149
There is a narrow cone-of-maximum-visibility

00:17:10.149 --> 00:17:12.889
as you can see when I point this at a wall.

00:17:12.889 --> 00:17:18.426
These optical properties are what allow a
signal light to be visible even in direct sunlight,

00:17:18.426 --> 00:17:20.337
and they are important!

00:17:20.337 --> 00:17:21.956
And critically?

00:17:21.956 --> 00:17:27.711
The actual lamp assembly is designed around a specific bulb type.

00:17:27.711 --> 00:17:32.690
The filaments in a 1157 bulb like this are the same exact size

00:17:32.690 --> 00:17:36.102
and in the same exact place from bulb to bulb,

00:17:36.102 --> 00:17:43.192
precisely so that a replacement bulb will perform
 exactly as intended in the light fixture.

00:17:43.192 --> 00:17:45.920
Everything needs to line up optically.

00:17:45.920 --> 00:17:50.955
Remember, this looks bright because it’s
effectively magnifying the filament -

00:17:50.955 --> 00:17:53.029
so a tiny region of space

00:17:53.029 --> 00:17:56.769
- and making it appear larger to you in the camera.

00:17:56.769 --> 00:17:59.360
LED bulbs don’t have filaments,

00:17:59.360 --> 00:18:05.392
and while some better replacements out there attempt to mimic the placement of the filament in one way or another,

00:18:05.392 --> 00:18:08.607
it simply will not behave as intended.

00:18:08.607 --> 00:18:13.562
This is why the packaging for LED drop-ins
has to say “for off-road use only”

00:18:13.562 --> 00:18:19.426
or “check with your local laws” because using
these instantly voids the DOT compliance

00:18:19.426 --> 00:18:21.827
of your car’s light fixtures.

00:18:21.827 --> 00:18:27.835
It is not legal to modify the lighting in
your car in pretty much any way at all.

00:18:27.835 --> 00:18:35.206
It annoys me endlessly that stores like Walmart
sell these things because the function of your car’s signal lighting

00:18:35.206 --> 00:18:37.434
— especially the brake lights! —

00:18:37.434 --> 00:18:39.741
is a critical component to safety,

00:18:39.741 --> 00:18:42.772
and screwing around with this can be dangerous.

00:18:42.772 --> 00:18:47.760
Let’s give a real quick shout-out to those
folks who tinted their tail lights to look cool.

00:18:47.760 --> 00:18:53.499
Thanks for proving that common sense means
nothing when you can follow a trend and be stylish!

00:18:53.499 --> 00:18:55.333
Humanity sure is great, huh?

00:18:55.333 --> 00:19:00.912
Oh and you should know that these flashing
lights are straight-up illegal in most places.

00:19:00.912 --> 00:19:04.944
Only emergency vehicles are allowed to have
flashing red lights

00:19:04.944 --> 00:19:09.540
(outside of rear turn signals on this continent because… reasons).

00:19:09.540 --> 00:19:14.653
If for some reason you absolutely cannot resist
putting LEDs in your car,

00:19:14.653 --> 00:19:19.840
please check that they perform at least as well as your original lamps.

00:19:19.840 --> 00:19:27.142
Yes I know they illuminate instantly and I much prefer LED brake lights on cars designed for them for that reason,

00:19:27.142 --> 00:19:31.924
but if your new bulb isn’t as bright as the old one,

00:19:31.924 --> 00:19:33.894
that won’t matter much, will it?

00:19:33.894 --> 00:19:40.612
Compare the brightness between your original
equipment bulb and your replacement by only changing one first.

00:19:40.612 --> 00:19:45.538
Move around your car and check to make sure
the range of visibility is the same,

00:19:45.538 --> 00:19:51.594
and for brake lights make sure there is a substantial
difference between tail and stop intensities.

00:19:51.594 --> 00:19:55.646
Way too many of these replacements have hardly a difference at all.

00:19:55.646 --> 00:20:01.434
But the best way to ensure your lights work
like they should - as well as to keep them legal?

00:20:01.434 --> 00:20:04.340
Just use the bulbs they’re designed to use.

00:20:04.340 --> 00:20:08.950
If your car was built to use incandescent
lights, then use them.

00:20:08.950 --> 00:20:12.468
Thank you for listening to this public service
announcement.

00:20:12.468 --> 00:20:16.410
Alright so these final flashers, what’s inside them?

00:20:16.787 --> 00:20:19.510
Ah, now we have a circuit board!

00:20:19.510 --> 00:20:23.470
This looks sophisticated enough to be programmed
with a specific flashing ra-

00:20:23.847 --> 00:20:26.049
eh, no. We’ll just cut to the chase.

00:20:26.049 --> 00:20:30.740
Even in these flashers the speed is significantly
different between the two.

00:20:30.740 --> 00:20:33.110
But, these at least compensate for the voltage.

00:20:33.110 --> 00:20:37.413
No matter what I have this set to it flashes
at the same rate, although curiously

00:20:37.413 --> 00:20:41.675
as I adjust the voltage upward, it temporarily slows down.

00:20:41.675 --> 00:20:43.265
So that’s weird.

00:20:43.501 --> 00:20:48.538
Bottom line, these things have never been
made so precisely that any two of them

00:20:48.538 --> 00:20:53.980
will flash at the same exact rate, no matter what
their underlying technology is.

00:20:53.980 --> 00:20:59.230
It simply doesn’t make sense to use high-cost
components like a clock crystal and microcontroller

00:20:59.230 --> 00:21:04.160
when you only need to meet the target of 
“between 60 and 120 flashes per minute.”

00:21:05.133 --> 00:21:08.730
That’s what the law says regarding signal
flashing frequency, by the way.

00:21:08.730 --> 00:21:14.799
It’s not that precise, so these aren’t
and never have been built with precision.

00:21:14.799 --> 00:21:18.931
And frankly the law is probably that imprecise
because when that was written,

00:21:18.931 --> 00:21:21.413
this was the state-of-the-art.

00:21:21.413 --> 00:21:24.293
OK, but now I want to go back to the Figaro for a moment.

00:21:24.293 --> 00:21:30.620
Although this car is 30 years old, its turn
signal flasher behaves like the electronic unit we just looked at.

00:21:30.620 --> 00:21:34.256
There’s no delay at all between hitting
the switch and the lamps lighting,

00:21:34.256 --> 00:21:38.999
and the speed of the flashing is not only very regular
but also does not change

00:21:38.999 --> 00:21:42.250
when the car is running and the system voltage goes up.

00:21:42.878 --> 00:21:45.299
I wonder what this flasher is like...

00:21:45.299 --> 00:21:46.530
Well, here it is.

00:21:46.969 --> 00:21:51.498
Or, at least, a similar Nissan flasher from around the same era.

00:21:52.188 --> 00:21:54.910
Look, I’m going down this rabbit hole so you don’t have to.

00:21:54.910 --> 00:21:57.254
This thing certainly doesn’t feel empty,

00:21:57.254 --> 00:22:03.147
and indeed when we pull it apart there’s a whole dang circuit board in there

00:22:03.147 --> 00:22:06.256
with one of them integrated computer chips.

00:22:06.256 --> 00:22:10.359
This is much more phosisticated than the electronic
one we just looked at.

00:22:10.359 --> 00:22:12.062
How does it work?

00:22:12.062 --> 00:22:17.690
Well… I tried looking for a datasheet for this IC
but yeah that’s not really happening.

00:22:17.690 --> 00:22:21.758
A resonator might be in that chip somewhere
to provide a time signal,

00:22:21.758 --> 00:22:25.251
so let’s see if these signals, running on this flasher,

00:22:25.251 --> 00:22:28.037
will stay in sync with the Figaro.

00:22:28.037 --> 00:22:32.019
It’s extremely close, but not quite the same.

00:22:32.019 --> 00:22:36.300
I know that this isn’t the same exact part
number as the flasher in the Figaro,

00:22:36.300 --> 00:22:40.833
but it’s a genuine Nissan part from the same era and
the speed is so close

00:22:40.833 --> 00:22:44.974
that I can only assume they are both intended to flash at the same rate.

00:22:44.974 --> 00:22:47.411
But they still don’t exactly.

00:22:47.411 --> 00:22:52.887
They may appear to be in sync for a short
while, but eventually they drift apart.

00:22:52.887 --> 00:22:57.901
The main purpose of that IC is probably to enable hyperflashing.

00:22:57.901 --> 00:23:02.965
For decades now, it has been required that cars indicate a burnt out turn signal

00:23:02.965 --> 00:23:07.988
by changing the rate of flashing when that happens, usually upward.

00:23:07.988 --> 00:23:11.190
And indeed, if I take out a bulb from our rig here -

00:23:11.190 --> 00:23:15.792
now it flashes faster on one side than the other.

00:23:15.792 --> 00:23:20.790
This is the one advantage that a combined
stop-and-turn setup has -

00:23:20.790 --> 00:23:24.489
letting you know a brake light is out through hyperflashing
the turn signal -

00:23:24.489 --> 00:23:28.153
though that could easily be handled with one of these.

00:23:28.153 --> 00:23:30.767
But penny-pinchers gonna penny-pinch.

00:23:30.767 --> 00:23:36.729
That chip is probably there mainly to create
a current-sensing function for the hyperflash feature,

00:23:36.729 --> 00:23:41.881
and since they were going that far they might as well have 
made it handle the flashing more precisely

00:23:41.881 --> 00:23:44.781
using a resonator on the chip or something.

00:23:44.781 --> 00:23:49.848
Oh, also of note is that this flasher is also
used for the four-way hazard lights.

00:23:49.848 --> 00:23:55.038
You can see that on the label - hazard/warning is turn/signal X 2.

00:23:55.038 --> 00:24:00.189
A lot of older vehicles would actually have
a separate flasher for the hazards, fun fact.

00:24:00.189 --> 00:24:06.149
But this handles both, suggesting the flash
rate isn’t influenced directly by current going through it

00:24:06.149 --> 00:24:10.284
but instead changes only when it’s below a certain threshold.

00:24:10.284 --> 00:24:12.728
So, even though this is an electronic device,

00:24:12.728 --> 00:24:17.563
and it seems as though it has a very deliberately-programmed flash frequency,

00:24:17.563 --> 00:24:23.985
it’s just not precise enough to stay in perfect sync with another car
 - or at least its flasher -

00:24:23.985 --> 00:24:27.021
from the same manufacturer from the same time period.

00:24:27.021 --> 00:24:31.086
Why, then, do these three cars not drift apart?

00:24:31.086 --> 00:24:34.386
It really wasn’t hard at all for me to get
these to flash together.

00:24:34.386 --> 00:24:36.864
Look. It just took a bit of trial-and-error.

00:24:36.864 --> 00:24:43.853
Now in case you’re not hyper-aware of the
US car market to the point you can identify these vehicles with just this angled view,

00:24:43.853 --> 00:24:48.447
these are all General Motors products, Chevrolets to be specific.

00:24:48.447 --> 00:24:52.301
That’s a pretty significant commonality,
but you know what else they have in common?

00:24:52.301 --> 00:24:55.920
None of those cars have one of these!

00:24:55.920 --> 00:24:59.063
Have you ever noticed that starting around
10 or 15 years ago,

00:24:59.063 --> 00:25:02.572
the clicking sound of the turn signal changed?

00:25:02.572 --> 00:25:09.154
Pretty much every mainstream car made between
oh maybe 1980 and 2005 or so

00:25:09.154 --> 00:25:13.200
sounded exactly like this.
[classic, rhythmic tick-tock]

00:25:13.200 --> 00:25:14.860
Maybe it was a little louder.

00:25:14.860 --> 00:25:16.279
Maybe it seemed a tad muffled.

00:25:16.530 --> 00:25:22.052
But the tick-tock-tick-tock-tick-tock was
coming from one of these things

00:25:22.052 --> 00:25:24.490
tucked somewhere under the dashboard.

00:25:24.490 --> 00:25:28.531
You were hearing the actual switch contacts
opening and closing,

00:25:28.531 --> 00:25:32.912
and that served as the legally-required audio queue.

00:25:32.912 --> 00:25:34.532
Modern cars, though?

00:25:34.940 --> 00:25:37.150
They can sound like anything at all.

00:25:37.150 --> 00:25:40.260
Fords sound like somebody’s playing ping pong.

00:25:40.260 --> 00:25:43.181
They can sound like whatever the automaker
can imagine

00:25:43.181 --> 00:25:46.415
because that sound isn’t real.

00:25:46.415 --> 00:25:48.580
Look at this. This is my Chevy Volt.

00:25:48.580 --> 00:25:50.000
It’s not on.

00:25:50.000 --> 00:25:54.270
And now I’ll hit the hazard lights, which don’t
need the car to be running in order to work.

00:25:54.270 --> 00:25:55.490
They’re on.

00:25:55.490 --> 00:25:56.840
You can see them.

00:25:56.840 --> 00:25:58.280
But there’s no ticking sound!

00:25:58.280 --> 00:25:59.767
They’re just flashing!

00:26:00.238 --> 00:26:02.030
What is this madness?

00:26:02.030 --> 00:26:08.464
Well, for about a decade now, General Motors
products have been using the car’s stereo system

00:26:08.464 --> 00:26:11.215
to make all the noises a car has to make.

00:26:11.215 --> 00:26:14.759
So when the car is off and the stereo is powered down,

00:26:14.759 --> 00:26:18.271
it can’t make the ticking sound of the turn signal.

00:26:18.271 --> 00:26:20.858
It also can’t make two sounds at once -

00:26:20.858 --> 00:26:26.264
if I turn it on, the ticking sound doesn’t begin until the fasten seat belt chime stops.

00:26:26.264 --> 00:26:31.598
[bong, bong ends abruptly; then tick-tock begins]

00:26:31.598 --> 00:26:34.726
A Quirk only Doug could appreciate.

00:26:34.726 --> 00:26:40.538
This ticking sound is literally coming from
the driver’s side speaker in the footwell.

00:26:40.538 --> 00:26:42.151
Same with the chime.

00:26:42.151 --> 00:26:45.364
[loud chiming]

00:26:45.364 --> 00:26:49.222
As I said, it’s been like this for a long time in GM cars,

00:26:49.222 --> 00:26:54.320
and in fact they have to sell little noisemaker dongles 
that you plug into the radio’s wiring harness

00:26:54.320 --> 00:26:57.583
if you want to add an aftermarket stereo.

00:26:57.583 --> 00:27:00.331
On the one hand that’s kinda silly,

00:27:00.331 --> 00:27:06.083
but on the other their cars all come with 
a pretty sophisticated noisemaking device already

00:27:06.083 --> 00:27:10.841
so why not build the chimes and ticks and beeps and bongs into that?

00:27:10.841 --> 00:27:12.311
So they do.

00:27:12.311 --> 00:27:17.973
Now just because GM uses the stereo to make
the noises doesn’t mean every car company does.

00:27:17.973 --> 00:27:24.237
Others could certainly use a dedicated noise
maker thing, just like cars have been doing for the seat belt beeper for decades.

00:27:24.237 --> 00:27:31.272
But the point remains that in nearly all cases
these days the clicking sound isn’t real anymore.

00:27:31.272 --> 00:27:35.834
In fact, if you listen reaaaallly closely while
the car is off,

00:27:35.834 --> 00:27:43.082
you can hear the actual relay sending current to the turn signals
quietly ticking away under the hood.

00:27:43.082 --> 00:27:47.098
Well, I’m afraid I have to make a correction
because when I came out here to film the

00:27:47.098 --> 00:27:48.301
relays clicking…

00:27:48.301 --> 00:27:50.520
I can’t hear anything at all!

00:27:50.520 --> 00:27:54.772
I know the Equinox makes a faint noise but
apparently in the Volt…

00:27:54.772 --> 00:27:57.520
it’s probably transistors driving the turn signals.

00:27:57.520 --> 00:27:58.860
Whaddya know.

00:27:58.860 --> 00:28:03.252
See, the thing is, car companies have been
getting creative with using lighting

00:28:03.252 --> 00:28:05.980
to mean other things for a long time.

00:28:05.980 --> 00:28:11.740
GM cars use the turn signals as visual confirmation
of locking and unlocking with the remote.

00:28:11.740 --> 00:28:13.901
Lots of others do the same.

00:28:13.901 --> 00:28:18.960
Rather than create some sort of Frankenstein
circuit which can hijack the signal flasher,

00:28:18.960 --> 00:28:25.299
they just got rid of it and gave that task
over to some relays controlled by a body module.

00:28:25.299 --> 00:28:28.740
In other words a small computer in charge of stuff like that.

00:28:28.740 --> 00:28:30.280
This turn signal switch?

00:28:30.280 --> 00:28:33.910
It’s not handling any meaningful amount of current like this one.

00:28:34.192 --> 00:28:35.950
It’s just an input.

00:28:35.950 --> 00:28:39.097
It simply has to tell whatever module runs
the turns signals that

00:28:39.097 --> 00:28:43.120
“hey, I’m in the UP position” and then that module will say

00:28:43.120 --> 00:28:46.880
“Ah, time to flash the right side - hey you in the gauge cluster!

00:28:46.880 --> 00:28:48.960
Start animating that little blinker arrow.

00:28:48.960 --> 00:28:51.460
And hey, stereo, get clicking!

00:28:51.460 --> 00:28:56.009
While you two do that I’m gonna repeatedly apply
power to these two light bulbs.”

00:28:56.009 --> 00:28:58.798
And this particular car, infuriatingly,

00:28:58.798 --> 00:29:02.023
doesn’t do all that with perfect coordination.

00:29:02.023 --> 00:29:07.099
The animation, sound, and actual flashing
are all just a little out of sync.

00:29:07.099 --> 00:29:10.860
It’s great. 
Definitely not bothersome to the kind of person I am.

00:29:10.860 --> 00:29:13.601
Oh, and making this simply an input

00:29:13.601 --> 00:29:21.100
is what has enabled stuff like the tap-for-a-lane-change feature which some of you have intense feelings towards.

00:29:21.100 --> 00:29:25.080
To those of you on Twitter, I just want you
to know this video was in the works long before

00:29:25.080 --> 00:29:26.860
we had that particular discussion.

00:29:26.860 --> 00:29:29.128
I mean did you really think I could turn this around so f-

00:29:29.128 --> 00:29:34.830
Cars have been computerized to a degree that
I think very few people recognize.

00:29:34.830 --> 00:29:40.380
You know how you have a LAN, your local area
network, running over Ethernet in your home?

00:29:40.380 --> 00:29:42.828
Your car has a CAN bus.

00:29:42.828 --> 00:29:45.197
Literally car-area networ -

00:29:45.605 --> 00:29:49.026
OK I’ve been informed it’s actually controller area network.

00:29:49.026 --> 00:29:54.867
Anyway, there is a digital communications
network traveling on wires throughout your car

00:29:54.867 --> 00:29:57.545
which various modules communicate over.

00:29:57.545 --> 00:30:01.788
And the first car to use this standard was
produced the same year this thing was.

00:30:01.788 --> 00:30:03.611
1991.

00:30:03.611 --> 00:30:07.182
We started doing this because cars just keep
getting more complex

00:30:07.182 --> 00:30:10.277
and there’s no sign of that stopping any time soon.

00:30:10.277 --> 00:30:16.318
The CAN bus allows for controlling the various
whatevers in a car with much less wiring.

00:30:16.318 --> 00:30:18.999
Take power windows just as an example.

00:30:18.999 --> 00:30:24.323
Before the CAN bus, these switches were - again - 
literal current-carrying switches.

00:30:24.323 --> 00:30:28.153
That meant if you wanted the driver to have
control over all four windows,

00:30:28.153 --> 00:30:33.827
you’d need to route heavy-gauge wiring into the driver’s
door for every window.

00:30:33.827 --> 00:30:39.697
A CAN bus allows these buttons to simply send
a message that they’re being pressed to a body module

00:30:39.697 --> 00:30:45.254
which controls the window motors, and in fact you could do all the communicating for all of the switches

00:30:45.254 --> 00:30:47.886
with a single pair of wires if you wanted.

00:30:47.886 --> 00:30:51.780
You then also get the ability to integrate
modules together to do clever things

00:30:51.780 --> 00:30:56.969
such as roll all the windows down when you press
and hold unlock on the keyfob.

00:30:56.969 --> 00:31:01.516
That’s a neat party trick which GM has seemingly
haphazardly implemented.

00:31:01.516 --> 00:31:05.576
The Equinox and Bolt shown here can’t do this.

00:31:05.576 --> 00:31:08.581
We could do a whole video series on that sort of thing,

00:31:08.581 --> 00:31:10.074
and in fact I kind of want to,

00:31:10.074 --> 00:31:12.120
but here’s why it’s relevant.

00:31:12.120 --> 00:31:15.476
To make this network of things talk to each
other correctly,

00:31:15.476 --> 00:31:22.811
each thing needs its own precise clock - something to drive its internal processing circuitry at the appropriate speed.

00:31:22.811 --> 00:31:30.098
The signals on the network need really specific
timing and frequencies to be intelligible between nodes on the network,

00:31:30.098 --> 00:31:34.906
so unlike this circuit which may use a cheap resonator if it even has one,

00:31:34.906 --> 00:31:40.545
the body module in charge of flashing the turn signals, just like every other module on the CAN bus,

00:31:40.545 --> 00:31:45.674
will have a very precise clock operating at a very specific frequency.

00:31:45.674 --> 00:31:52.719
And so, if the manufacturer has decided that
their cars will flash the turn signals at 90 flashes per minute,

00:31:52.719 --> 00:31:56.855
it will be EXACTLY 90 flashes per minute.

00:31:56.855 --> 00:32:00.718
None of this “close-enough” that flashers of the past aspired to -

00:32:00.718 --> 00:32:01.864
exact.

00:32:01.864 --> 00:32:08.049
So, if you’re behind a car from the same
manufacturer as the one you’re in and they’re both relatively recent,

00:32:08.049 --> 00:32:11.138
you can probably get your turn signal synced with theirs.

00:32:11.138 --> 00:32:14.344
I haven’t tried it with anything other than
GM products, but

00:32:14.344 --> 00:32:18.182
I’ve synced mine to plenty of other Chevys and a Buick, too.

00:32:18.182 --> 00:32:23.401
For fun I’ve tried to see if BMW might use the same
flash frequency as GM

00:32:23.401 --> 00:32:27.574
but I’ve literally never had an opportunity to check for some reason.

00:32:27.574 --> 00:32:29.219
So - there’s the answer.

00:32:29.219 --> 00:32:33.807
It used to be basically impossible to synchronize
the turn signals of two different cars

00:32:33.807 --> 00:32:39.651
because turn signal flashers just weren’t precision
devices by any stretch of the imagination.

00:32:39.651 --> 00:32:44.682
But now it’s actually pretty easy - at least,
among cars of the same make.

00:32:44.682 --> 00:32:49.350
Give it a try next time you’re out and about
but, like, when it’s safe to do so.

00:32:49.350 --> 00:32:51.961
Don’t be foolish, drive safely.

00:32:51.961 --> 00:32:54.935
That means use your turn signals, also!

00:32:54.935 --> 00:32:56.756
Yeah, I’m talking to you.

00:32:56.756 --> 00:32:57.908
It’s not hard.

00:32:57.908 --> 00:32:59.644
Literally next to effortless.

00:32:59.644 --> 00:33:02.476
Make it a habit and you won’t even think about it.

00:33:02.476 --> 00:33:07.350
Well... unless your car has a really weird
and non-standard turn signal control

00:33:07.350 --> 00:33:10.610
because stalkless driving is a feature now?

00:33:10.610 --> 00:33:12.780
Before I go, here’s a fun fact.

00:33:12.780 --> 00:33:19.447
GM cars - or at least, some of them - have individual control over each turn signal position.

00:33:19.447 --> 00:33:24.517
When you use a scan tool to tell the car you’re
programming new tire pressure sensors to it,

00:33:24.517 --> 00:33:31.735
it lights up each individual turn signal on each corner of the
car to tell you which tire it’s looking to pair.

00:33:31.735 --> 00:33:33.365
It starts with the front left,

00:33:33.365 --> 00:33:40.226
keeping that light solidly lit until your pairing tool successfully prods that wheel to start talking to the car.

00:33:40.226 --> 00:33:42.921
Then it honks and lights up the front right,

00:33:42.921 --> 00:33:45.252
moving clockwise around the car.

00:33:45.252 --> 00:33:50.208
I’ve got winter tires and I’ve seen the
techs go through this rigmarole each seasonal swap.

00:33:50.208 --> 00:33:53.613
I was genuinely delighted by that bit of cleverness.

00:33:53.613 --> 00:33:55.259
Tickled me pink, it did.

00:33:55.259 --> 00:33:59.745
Oh, also, here’s a feature that GM seems
to have removed which is a shame.

00:33:59.745 --> 00:34:03.929
Deep in the menu settings of the Volt is a
setting called “Chime Volume.”

00:34:03.929 --> 00:34:07.820
You can actually toggle the volume of the
chime between two levels,

00:34:07.820 --> 00:34:13.804
but what it doesn’t tell you is that this also affects the loudness
of the turn signal clicker!

00:34:13.804 --> 00:34:19.529
This is genuinely really useful, as in lots
of cars I can’t hear the clicking at highway speeds.

00:34:19.529 --> 00:34:23.149
On the loud setting you definitely can in this car.

00:34:23.149 --> 00:34:27.834
Unfortunately, while the Bolt has even more
settings for the chime volume,

00:34:27.834 --> 00:34:29.036
that’s all it affects.

00:34:29.036 --> 00:34:30.036
Just the chime.

00:34:30.350 --> 00:34:31.068
Shame.

00:34:31.413 --> 00:34:36.712
Also, in case you think this is a fluke, here’s
the same three cars flashing together.

00:34:36.712 --> 00:34:38.510
And now we’ll speed this up.

00:34:38.918 --> 00:34:40.800
Here we find something interesting.

00:34:40.800 --> 00:34:47.240
The Equinox and Volt - that’s the black
and red cars - are 2013 and 2015 model years.

00:34:47.240 --> 00:34:51.833
They also have incredibly similar switchgear and infotainment systems.

00:34:51.833 --> 00:34:56.942
These two stay completely together for tens of minutes, but the Bolt?

00:34:56.942 --> 00:34:59.073
It does eventually drift apart.

00:34:59.230 --> 00:35:01.825
It takes a while, so it’s extremely close,

00:35:01.825 --> 00:35:06.815
but this makes me think the Volt and Equinox probably have identical body modules,

00:35:06.815 --> 00:35:09.154
and the Bolt’s has been revised.

00:35:09.154 --> 00:35:15.479
The Bolt also has some radically different
user-interfaces compared to the other two which reinforces this idea.

00:35:15.479 --> 00:35:18.914
Plus it actually has amber rear turn signals,

00:35:18.914 --> 00:35:21.245
amazing!

00:35:22.186 --> 00:35:24.860
♫ indicatively smooth jazz ♫

00:35:25.990 --> 00:35:28.880
You can’t get it s… uh, no. That’s incorrect.

00:35:29.288 --> 00:35:32.877
[engine noise]

00:35:35.544 --> 00:35:39.754
But let’s step back in time and look at how turn signal circuits used to fwork.

00:35:39.754 --> 00:35:40.505
Fwork.

00:35:40.505 --> 00:35:44.344
Cars have needed blinky lights on the 
[a series of very silly noises]

00:35:44.344 --> 00:35:46.264
….and then push it down.

00:35:46.264 --> 00:35:47.404
Oh! It was engaged.

00:35:47.404 --> 00:35:48.404
Great.

00:35:48.935 --> 00:35:52.594
While I’m out here, that is the range of maximum visibility

00:35:52.594 --> 00:35:54.372
for the Volt’s brake lights.

00:35:54.372 --> 00:35:57.759
You can see it is very much a directed beam.

00:35:57.759 --> 00:36:03.085
It will send 12V out on one of the other pins
when we engage the circle.

00:36:03.085 --> 00:36:03.911
Signal.

00:36:03.911 --> 00:36:09.448
Put this in series with the 12V supply and
watch what happens.

00:36:10.766 --> 00:36:12.334
That was way too sloppy.

00:36:12.334 --> 00:36:16.948
Now if you’ve been watching this channel
for a while you’ll proba… Oh noooo!

00:36:19.834 --> 00:36:23.185
See, I should have definitely done something
more robust than this.

00:36:25.632 --> 00:36:29.042
It’s ‘cause you’ve been coiled up a
whole bunch of times.

00:36:29.042 --> 00:36:29.713
No.

00:36:31.847 --> 00:36:34.632
[sudden acceleration rearward]

00:36:35.981 --> 00:36:39.133
Current flows through the fff eh buh

00:36:39.133 --> 00:36:43.229
In any case, once the switch contacts open again…

00:36:44.861 --> 00:36:47.029
I lost my s… track.

00:36:47.029 --> 00:36:48.055
I lost where I was.

00:36:48.055 --> 00:36:51.185
Eventually the voltage is enough to pull the
switch closed,

00:36:51.185 --> 00:36:53.558
rinse and repeat.

00:36:55.127 --> 00:36:56.639
This is not connected.

00:36:56.639 --> 00:36:58.340
Great job, guys!

00:37:00.787 --> 00:37:03.626
Well, wasn't this video illuminating?

00:37:03.626 --> 00:37:06.603
Then again I suppose it wasn't for an equal amount of time.

00:37:06.603 --> 00:37:10.065
Kept going back and forth between enlightened and dim, huh?

00:37:10.065 --> 00:37:13.169
Man, is my material getting repetitive? Hope not.

00:37:13.169 --> 00:37:15.140
USE YOUR FORKING TURN SIGNALS

